Ferry On

Moxie & I have ridden four ferries in the past three days. (That's a ferry for every month of her new life!) On the first ride, she quickly found safe haven under a bench. But by ferry number four she acted like an old sea dog, heading straight for the front where the restraining net was conveniently sized to accommodate her head. I half expected her to bark out "I'm king of the world!"

It's been a lovely ride down the coast of the Carolinas. I can't say I ever considered the coastline between the Outer Banks and Florida. Perhaps that's why I'm so surprised. Carolina Beach State Park, where we stopped for a hike yesterday, impressed me especially. The visitors center and campgrounds appear to be immaculately maintained, and the ecosystems within the park range from beach to forest. We hiked through both, lollygagging to enjoy the wonders of the shoreline. (Note the tiny crab just below and left of center in the picture.) This would be a great spot to camp for a few days on our way back up the coast.

We pulled into Myrtle Beach after dark last night, having read that lodging prices there plummet in the off-season. Sure enough, for $33 we crashed at the Sea Banks Motor Inn on the Strand, across Ocean Boulevard from the beach. The Sea Banks reminded me of a motel in the movies -- the kind in which people do hard drugs and get shot. The outdoor common areas were carpeted in blue astroturf (a la Boise State) and the rooms all shared long balconies. The furnishings were sparse but clean, and the staff couldn't have been friendlier. The other guests were friendly, too... Here's a snippet from a conversation I had with a neighbor:

room 222: Where are you from?
me: Not really anywhere, just traveling.
room 222: Me, too. But I used to be from North Carolina. I came down here with my wife. Guess I'll leave without her.
me: Oh---
room 222: That was three years ago.
[pause]
room 222: But that's all I'm gonna say about that.

Was this some kind of cosmic warning about dwelling in the grief of a breakup? (No, well-meaning friends, he wasn't my type. And that's all I'll say about that!) One final note about Myrtle Beach: with the disclaimer that I only saw it in the dark (we lifted parking brake at 0600), it surely doesn't seem as bad as everyone says it is. I wouldn't mind coming back for a weekend sometime.

Now we're at a Starbucks just a few miles north of Charleston. Moxie is angelically working a rawhide chew at my feet and I'm basking in the luxury of a caramel macchiato and modern technology. (The internet here is fast and strong, just the way I like it.) I'm not sure how far we'll get today. We'll definitely spend a few hours exploring Charleston, which receives only the highest marks from everyone I ask. The outdoor market and Folly Beach are on our list. And then, either today or tomorrow, on to Savannah!